Sezincote

 

Sezincote, Moreton in Marsh - pronounced ‘seas in coat’

The first enticing image at the main front of the house.

It’s not often that reality exceeds expectation, in my experience. Sezincote did indeed exceed my expectations, and by a long way, at that. I had heard of the place, in passing, a few times, and had mentally put it on a vague to-do list, and then promptly forgotten about it. It was only when two totally disparate circumstances crashed into each other that my curiosity was truly engaged. I have been interested in the East India Company for a while, but had not thought there might be a significant architectural impact of its influence here in England. But then I read some interesting papers listed by University College London, under the name ‘The East India Company at home’, and in amongst a number of unheard of places, there it was - Sezincote. I was pretty sure that I had seen the property listed in the Historic Houses Association handbook, and that it was not too far from my daughter’s home in Gloucestershire, so I was determined to have a look the next time I visited the area.

Maybe the best view of the House. Taken from the South East.

The East India Company was an English Private Joint Stock Company that took over great chunks of 

India and eventually ruled most of India under the auspices of the British Crown. To say its rule was

controversial is to put things mildly, but it was interesting to me because of its influence on British

Society. In the 18th century in particular, great fortunes were made, which were often repatriated to 

the British Isles when the survivors returned to retire and turn themselves into English Gentlemen. 

Similarly, in the early 19th Century, men were still returning to these shores having made their fortunes,

likewise wanting to enjoy their earnings, spoils, rewards/ booty (the category depends very much on

your take on the role of the British in India) in style.

 

The Mogul dome with minarets called chattri.

There had been a house on the site for hundreds of years when Colonel John Cockerell bought the house

in 1796. At that time the house on site was a gabled Jacobean manor house, (see the post on Asthall

Manor for the style). He wanted to embellish it a bit more, but he died before any major renovations

could be made in 1798. It was left in his will to his three siblings. Charles Cockerell bought out his other

two siblings shares and set to work on making his dreams become a reality. His younger brother Samuel

Pepys Cockerell (yes, they were related to the famous diarist) had been Surveyor to the East India

Company (though he never set foot in India!), but was very familiar with the architectural styles of the

country, having seen the works of Thomas Daniell who had spent years in India recording the various

regional styles and producing a monumental six volume record of his aquatint paintings of that country

called ‘Oriental Scenery’. The result of this trio's ideas and vision is largely what we see today. So as you

can see at once, Sezincote is unique. It has an Mogul/Hindu Indian influenced exterior superimposed on

the classical layout of a Georgian mansion. The interior is pure Georgian with a small Indian influences

here and there. 

The magnificent curving Orangery with its Octagonal entrance. This curving design is thought to be unique. It is full of Mogul and Hindu motifs.

Attached to the main house on one side is the orangery, which curves away from it in a manner not seen

by me, anywhere else. On the other side of the house is the tent room, which was once linked to the 

house by a curved passageway with iron trellis; again heavily influenced by Indian architecture, and

thoroughly charming. This unique house is a hybrid, and like many hybrid flowers, it is spectacular 

in its originality and beauty. I loved it. And it's not just the house that is stunning.

 

The main front entrance modelled on the Gate of the Loll Bagh, Faizabad, as recorded by Thomas Daniell in 'Oriental Scenery'

The Mogul inspired windows with their peacock tail upper decoration, surmounted by the sacred lotus symbol.

The tent room to the north of the house.

Inside the rooms are mainly beautifully restored and furnished in classic Georgian Style. There are two exceptions - the Peacock Bedroom which has a Mogul domed canopied bed. The curtains and swags are in an exotic oriental style material, and the walls are also painted in the oriental style. Stunning. The other room of great note was the dining room which had bespoke wallpaper, the themes of which had been taken from Thomas Daniell's books. A marvel to behold. 

The temple pool with its shrine to Surya, the Vedic (Hindu) God of the sun. It faces the rising sun.

The three headed snake fountain, situated just below the Indian Bridge.

The gardens were influenced by both Thomas Daniell, and Humphry Repton, and they are beautiful,

 quirky, original and beautifully maintained. The garden style is English, but there are Indian artifacts

 scattered here and there, and a serenity which is hard to explain. We were lucky in that we visited on

 a perfect early Autumn day, when the sun shone and only occasional scudding clouds dotted a beautiful

 blue sky. At the bottom of the garden is a pond which is crossed by a wooden bridge, which felt strangely

 Japanese to me. And then the magnificent ancient Cedars were just stunning (I have a very soft spot for

 the Cedar of Lebanon tree. They are so solid, but equally graceful - perfect).

 

The lower pool - calmly serene - it has a definite Japanese feel!

Sezincote went through a few owner/occupiers between the early Nineteenth Century and now, and was

nearly lost in the 1940’s. Fortunately the Kleinworts (of the famous banking company - Kleinwort

Benson) rescued it from demolition, and restored it to its current glory. We must be eternally grateful to

them. The current owners are their descendents.

Such a unique building could not go unnoticed by those looking for interesting filming locations. 

My favourite spotting was when rewatching the latest version of Poldark, where it appeared as Vauxhall

Gardens in several episodes in series 5. There was some very clever CGI, where they made a mirror 

image of the orangery, to make a semi-circular pavilion  - very ingenious.

 

The southern front of the house (so elegant), with the Orangery curving out to the left.

For we lesser mortals, you can tour the house (booking necessary), have tea and cakes in the Orangery,

and just enjoy the Indian cars parked at the front of the house.

For those seeking an unusual, but spectacular wedding venue, Sezincote has to be on your list

I could write reams upon this gem in the Cotswolds, and it would not do the place justice. So if you find

yourself in the area of Moreton in Marsh, seek out this unique house and gardens and treat yourself to a

wonderful day out.

The last word must go to John Betjeman, who wrote in ‘Summoned by Bells’:

 

Down the drive,

Under the early yellow leaves of oaks;

One lodge is Tudor, one in Indian style.

The bridge, the water, the Temple Pool

And there they burst on us, the onion domes,

Chajjahs and chattris made of amber stone:

‘Home of the Oaks’, exotic Sezincote.

Stately and strange it stood, the Nabob’s House,

Indian without and coolest Greek within

 

Brahmin bulls sit atop the bridge which introduces the visitor to the exotic character of Sezincote. In the background is a magnificent Cedar of Lebanon, with deciduous trees showing their early Autumn colour.

 

Regards! Detta 

 

Influenced by Sezincote. 

After visiting Sezincote, the Prince Regent, later George IV, asked Humphry Repton to change the designs for his pet project - the Brighton Pavilion, to reflect the exoticism of Sezincote with its cupolas and minarets. 

* In my new work, (Lady Serena's Secret) currently being created, there are several items that have been directly influenced by my visit to Sezincote. Early on in the book, Lady Serena sketches a bed which is very similar to that found in the Peacock Bedroom, along with handmade Chinese wallpaper. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside, so I cannot show show you a picture. Serena's design will, to her surprise, reappear in full realised form, later on in the book, in the Countess's bedroom.

Colonel Fawcett's Orchid Room has windows, the design of which, he freely admits, he stole directly from Sezincote (he too was a soldier in the employ of the East India Company).

I have yet to see if Sezincote will crop up elsewhere in the book. Sometimes story lines take on a whole life of their own!

Sezincote House looking through the Orangery window.

 

 

A book by Edward Peake (which is excellent) can be bought on the Sezincote website here.